In the pursuit of facial harmony, understanding the nine basic face shapes serves as a fundamental starting point. The overarching goal is to maintain a sense of balance in facial aesthetics, striving to achieve harmonious proportions that neither exaggerate width nor overly narrow the features.
It's essential to strike a delicate equilibrium to enhance the overall symmetry and coherence of the face. The goal is to avoid extremes, steering clear of designs or modifications that could result in an excessively broad or excessively slender appearance, ensuring that the facial features blend seamlessly for a natural and well-proportioned look.
Facial Features
The face comprises two distinct feature groups: Primary features and Secondary features.
Primary features encompass the eyes, nose, and mouth, representing the focal points of facial expression. On the other hand, Secondary features include the Brows, Jawline, Chin, and overall Face Shape, contributing to the comprehensive aesthetic of one's countenance, which is a person's face or facial expression.
When aiming to identify your facial shape, measurement becomes a crucial factor. It involves gauging the length of the face at its widest part, be it the brow, cheeks, and especially the Jawline. But before diving into the intricacies of face shapes, let's first briefly discuss the significance of the Jawline. This preliminary insight into the jawline will lay the groundwork for a more comprehensive understanding of the unique contours that define your facial structure.
The Jawline
While diving into the intriguing realm of face shapes, let's first talk a little bit about the pivotal factor in this secondary feature that is the jawline.
The Jawline is categorized into three grades based on the gonial angle – the angle of the jawline itself. These grades significantly influence both the appearance and shape of the jawline, creating distinct masculine features.
Gonial Grades:
- Grade C: A C-grade gonial angle forms a round jawline, presenting as a straight line from the earlobe to the chin. Despite a subtle angle in the jawbone, this results in a rounded face shape. Often associated with a long, narrow face and more delicate features due to less noticeable jaw muscle mass, it adds a unique touch to masculine aesthetics.
- Grade B: A B-grade gonial angle features a noticeable, robust, and prominent jaw angle. Not square, but well-defined with a longer ramus height, it closely aligns with ideal jawline parameters, creating a well-shaped and prominently masculine face.
- Grade A: Exceptionally rare, a Grade A jaw angle almost forms a perfect square, around a 90-degree jawline. This creates a fully developed and robust face, strongly associated with a highly masculine look. More common in men, and for those seeking distinct contours, where some women might opt for jaw reduction surgery.
Jawline Shapes:
- Flat or Straight Jawline: Common in men with a Grade C gonial angle, it appears as a straight line from the ears to the chin in profile. Often seen in those with a long, narrow face, possibly accompanied by a receded chin.
- Round and Soft Jawline: Characterized by a very obtuse gonial angle and a short, barely noticeable ramus, this convex-shaped jawline is more common and preferred in men.
- Concave Jawline: Featuring a noticeably defined gonial angle and near-perfect chin projection, the concave jawline is mostly considered masculine due to its prominence. Nevertheless, it is attractive in both men and women.
Given the significant role of jaw shape in determining facial structure, it's crucial to acknowledge the pivotal role that jaw shape plays in defining masculine facial structures.
The 9 Basic Face Shapes
Oval Face Shape
Now I would have to say that the most balanced of all the face shapes would be the Oval face shape with the length and height being perfectly balanced. People who have this face shape have longer rather than wider faces, the cheekbones are the widest point of the face, and the chin and jawline are rounded but not weak.
Some celebrity examples of this would that of Adam Levine, Ryan Gosseling, and Henry Goulding
With the symmetry of this shape, there are many options. To best feature this shape, you should keep the cut nice and tight, keeping hair off the face or parted to a side. Avoid fringe as that would shorten the appearance of the face. This face shape can also sport a multitude of facial hair, especially a mustache.
Round Face Shape
Next up for discussion is the Round shaped face with celebrity examples like Jeremy Renner or Zac Efron
This face shape is almost as wide as it is tall, being widest at the cheek bones.
Facial features usually sit slightly lower on the face, having fuller cheeks and a slightly rounder C-Grade jawline, and is generally quite symmetrical. Styles that flatter a rounder face are cuts that are leaner on the sides with some height on the top. Also angular styles like a Quiff look great. A round face shape is going to want to avoid any style that involves fringe or bangs, as that shrinks the face. No body wants shrinkage... The goal is to lengthen that appearance of the face to appear more oval. And if you want to do a mustache, make sure that is has a beard or goatee with it. A solo mustache will create a look that is too wide.
Square Face Shape
Not quite as long as a rectangular face, and similar to a round face, facial features with a square shape face also sit a little lower with a prominent forehead. The length and width of the face are the same, as well as having a straight hairline, accentuated cheekbones, and a sharper grade A or grade B jawline.
Some celebrity examples include Leo DiCaprio, Pedro Pascal, and Ashton Kutcher.
A nice part with volume is a great way to break up that vertical line. This softens the overall appearance of the face shape. Volume or a tousled look would be quite flattering, as well as any classic layered cut, or something side swept. An anchored mustache with a little goatee elongates the face, which can grant a little more balance to the facial features. Avoid anything that shortens the forehead.
Oblong Face Shape
People with this face shape typically have a wider forehead with long and narrow facial bone structure, usually sharing a grade C jaw.
Celebrities like Dwayne The Rock Johnson, Jake Gyllenhaal, and Ben Affleck share this shape in common.
Those with an oblong face shape will want to create balance by pairing hair length on top equal to length on sides. Some flow and width on the top creates some height making the face appear more oval. Pairing a goatee is a great anchor for this shape too, but go light with a beard. Also to note that this shaped face is ideal for bald guys.
Rectangle Face Shape
The rectangle face shape, as the name suggests, is shaped like a rectangle. The face is longer than it is wider, and the forehead, cheekbones, and jaw look equally apart. This face shape usually comes with a concave jawline and a grade A or grade B gonial angle.
Celebrities like Henry Cavill and Brad Pitt have this shape in common.
The rectangular face shape is also very symmetrical and slightly more angular version of the oval sharing that higher forehead, but with a broader jaw. This is a very versatile shape, where one can sport some volume on the sides, texture on the top, or sporting a side sweep flatter this shape. But keeping it short looks sharp as well. Going clean-shaven or having some short stubble with a natural outline look really sharp. Now since this shape is already angular in nature, one may want to avoid harsher styles, like a high crew or real angular cuts. Also, chin strap or lowrider beards would overemphasize the angular structure of this face shape.
Triangle Face Shape
Celebrities like Tom Cruise and Cillian Murphy share this great shape.
The triangle face shape is the opposite of the inverted triangle face shape. It is characterized by a narrow forehead, fuller cheekbones, and a broad jawline. This has one of the strongest jaw shapes where the jaw bone is slightly wider than cheek bones, as well as usually having a more pointed chin and narrower brow.
Styles that have more forehead coverage like a curtain effect and volume on the corners look great with this face shape. This face shines with a clean-shaven look, showing off that amazing jawline.
Diamond Face Shape
A face that is narrow at the forehead, wider at the cheekbones, and then again narrow at the chin is known as a diamond-shaped face. This face shape is usually accompanied by a grade B or grade A chin [projection][1] and a flat jawline. A couple of celebrity examples would include Johnny Depp and Jude Law
This shape is widest at cheekbones with a narrower forehead and chin. Recommended styles for the diamond face are more rounded, with limited top volume creating some width at the top and corners. You would not want to create too much height. Going wider is better. And while a clean-shaven look is nice, opting for a full beard is just as good. A narrow beard and too high of a center would create too much of an angular look.
Heart Shaped Face
While a heart-shaped face commonly has a widow's peak, it can also have a rounded hairline and a forehead. The forehead and cheekbones are wider than the narrow jawline. The jawline tends to have a bigger gonial angle. Looking at celebrities like Nick Jonus, David Beckham, and even Justin Timberlake are great examples of the coveted Heart Shaped face.
Textured styles look best with the heart-shaped face, softening the appearance. Styles with movement, but that are up and off the face are most flattering. Wear a style that is tight on the sides with a natural loose feel on top with perhaps some short shaped stubble. Avoid styles that emphasize the narrowness of the chin.
Pear (Inverted Triangle Face Shape)
This face shape is known for its wider jawline and pointed chin. The face is usually longer than wider, and it has a larger forehead. People who have this face shape typically have a flat jawline and grade A or grade B chin projection.
Looking at actors like Zach Galifianakis or Jonah Hill are clear examples of this distinctive shape. This shape usually carries a little more weight at the jaw with wider cheekbones and a narrower forehead.
Hairstyles that are a little longer with some soft volume on the top and through the sides look great with this face shape. Softer hairstyles to create a little more width through the top to balance the width of the jaw, and sporting a structured or angular beard is always a safe route. Avoid a rounded beard. Anything too high and tight can cause a narrowing effect making the jaw look even wider.
Ultimately Anything Goes...
It is important to keep in mind that facial shapes are not necessarily static in nature. While the bone structure might not change as much, weight and the muscular structure of the jaw are major variables, not to mention a changing hairline.
Ultimately, the goal is to achieve a balanced look that highlights your best features. Seeking input from your barber on which style may suit your face shape can make all the difference, as well as choosing what kind of facial hair you may or may not wish to flaunt. When you're with your barber, you're in the trust tree, ensuring you get personalized advice for the best results.
Max